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I'm running a 43 tooth rear. Stock is 47 tooth which uses the half link. Although I'm sure it's possible to fit a chain with out the half link anyway. The front sprocket on my bike is a stock 20 tooth.

@@relph3 You've had a chance to run it for a while now - have you had any clearance issues? I thought about it, but decided against it because of that (my T140V has standard 47 tooth rear, so I would need the half-link, anyway)

Yes,, That's me. was it you who was at the "Gawsworth Jesters" do at the Harrington Arms, Bosley yesterday evening, asking about the centre dial I have fitted to my bike?

If you have lost a spacer on the brake side, between the wheel and the calliper mounting bracket. It sits in the the dust seal of the wheel up against the bearing. You will have lost it because you left it in when you took the wheel out of the swing arm, after which It dropped out unnoticed. This happened to me and I had to buy another.. If it is the this spacer the part number is H7653136. shop.italhusky.com/en/products/2012/nuda-900-900r/rear-wheel-132 This spacer is the same as the 2017 BMW f800R Part number 36 31 763136 www.bike-parts-bmw.co.uk/bmw-motorcycle/F%20800/2015/F_800_R_17_-0B54_0B64_/K73-0B54-0B64-/Wheels-and-tyres/Cast-rim-rear/7/36_2150/36/590140B54

Yeah I get what you are saying about using modern semi or fully synthetic oils having the ability to loosen and keep in suspension the crud which used to build up in the engine and sludge trap. It is a risk using such modern detergent oils especially not knowing the service history of the bike etc. In my case I have had the clutch cover off and the rocker covers, also examined the oil tank and the gauze oil filter. All these areas were extremely clean with no signs of any solidified oil crud at all. So after fitting the external oil filter I have started to use Westway oil Semi Synthetic 20W50, which has an API SJ. The oil did get discoloured very quickly at first and I changed it after 300 miles, then 500 miles twice before returning to the standard 1000mile oil change intervals. I find I need to change the clutch oil more frequently. Although the clutch oil is topped up automatically by the engine oil, I find it gets very black and contaminated so I change it every 200 miles or so.

In reply to your question about my carbs jets and slide # I use: Amal Mk2 2930 L & R 30mm Bore 124/026 #25 Pilot Jet Air screw 1½ turns out 376/100 200 main Jet 124/026 #35 Choke Jet 2928/122 .105 Needle Jet (Brass) 2928/060 #3 Slide (New replacement Amal latest design which differs from the original) 2928/030 2C3 Needle (set to the top needle grove because the new slides created a too rich mixture) 2622/13535 Air Jet 3.5 (between velocity stack and carb body) 622/069 OE white none adjustable float Handlebar mounted fuel enrichment lever (cable operated choke) The exhaust down pipes are unbalanced and the end pipes are after mart pea shooters. I have tried this setup but with using the middle grove of the needle and 2 turns out of the Air screw but the bike ran a bit rich and would be a little hard to start after a good run if left for about half an hour or so. The engine not wanting to start with choke on but not wanting to start without choke. This setup would eventually cause the plugs to soot up and then a miss fire would occur.

@@relph3 Thanks for all the info, the reason you don't find much dirt in the filters etc is because it all builds up in the sludge trap, have a look at this video and see the amount of hard crud that your semi synthetic oil will be breaking up and feeding to your big ends - ruclips.net/video/1LDi3d9VVyY/видео.html

Good comment, on triumph trident it's essential to clear the crank oil ways, a 3hour job,

Are you talking about the end pipes or the down pipes. Neither are OE Triumph or Norton design.

The silencers of course.

Just to clarify you advocate having the filter on the pressurised side of the system that goes to the rockers and top of the frame/tank. The alternative would be from the base of the Frame/ Tank which is gravity fed and sucked into the engine ?

@@rorybeaumont All filters should be after the pump on the pressure side or tank retun line. Putting a filter on the inlet side will cause pump cavitation and may even collapese the lines. A gauze strainer on the inlet is fine and is all that is necessary. The bike is fitted with one already that just needs washing out.

@@rorybeaumont The Norton type spin on type oil filter MUST be connected to the return or pressure side from the pump. It is designed to do only that. It is not designed to work on the suction side of the pump as the pressure drop over that type of filter is pretty high and can result in immense low pressure cavitation issues occurring in the circuit, and even collapse flexible type hoses, especially at high engine speeds when you want the best oil flow over the bearings possible. . From Best Engineering practice, only a strainer free flow type filter should be fitted to the suction side of any pump. I believe some people us a Charlies type filter in the bottom of the oil column, but I would not recommend even that. You only need one oil filter of 10 to 15 microns in any circuit. Any others you include in the circuit are not doing anything other than restricting flow. I do hope you find this information of use.

Thank you. As a layman that makes sense to me. I'm now curious why people say they can be connected the other way !

Hi; I have a modified timing cover with the feed directly there like a car. In that system I had an external filter; on top of external filter mount have a device to screw the oil switch and the oil gauge line. Also have a N Hyde oil cooler plus a rotary pump. I put 10000km per year on these old bikes. I use it as transportation I am not a Sunday hopper...

If you are talking about the oil in frame filter sump plate. I stuck a sheet of medium sand paper to a flat work surface and spent about 1/2 an hour rubbing sump plate mating surface until it was flat. I put all the gaskets and internal oil filter back using silicone gadget, then waited until the silicone had set before refilling the bike with oil. If you join the Facebook Group "Triumph 650 & 750 Twins OIF" and search through my posts you will see pictures of me doing the sump plate. facebook.com/groups/315323709546199

@@relph3 I cut my own gaskets from 1/32" (0.8mm) gasket paper, and fit them with just a smear of grease. Never had a leak, and all it takes to clean the surfaces is a wipe with a rag.

Yes I have kept original filter in the sump. I probably could remove it but that would mean disturbing the currently leak free gasket surfaces. I cleaned it all out about 9 months ago.

I think you meant in frame oil reservoir and not sump?

Just buy one! You will not regret it. I have the R version. Join the Facebook groups facebook.com/groups/nuda900/ facebook.com/groups/oznudas/

The roller diameter on the japaneses chains is not the same a the Reynolds chain so there will always be some sloppiness when you pull the chain away from the sprocket.

Ok thank for that. Good tip..

@@relph3 No problem Ralph. For those unsure this is a lateral deflection test that highlights sideways play in the links over the chains entire length.

It depends on the length.

Yes, I am 99% confident it will be ok but until I ride the bike I can't be sure. I do think the chain guard will snag if I don't alter it somehow.

The wiring on my T140E was also a bit of a mess. So I just went through everything and put it all back to OE almost wire by wire. Message me on my Facebook and I'll send you what I've got on file.. Just look my full name "Derick Relph" up on Facebook..

@@relph3 Thank you Derick I will. So many butt connectors and push-in connectors and wires that just end.

The original Speedo not only bounced around but suddenly got stuck on 60mph. The delicate spring attached to the needle had somehow got tangled up... The GPS speedo is accurate and I was able to program it to record the mileage starting from where the original one had been.

Yeah, I know I should wear all the right PPE. I can't be bothered most of the time. In this case, I didn't even think about using a mask, goggles, gloves etc. I don't think the dust from PIR will be a problem really.

No. There is plenty of gaps between the roofing slates. Even if driving rain got behind the slates any wet would soon dry out.

I have finished insulating the window bay. Prior to me doing so, the window bay was not only badly insulated from the cold but also there was unacceptable noise levels of traffic from the nearby main road which stopped us using the room. Insulating and sealing up the window bay has made a big difference. For example if I opened the window prior to insulating the sound levels from outside hardly changed. The whole room is now warmer and quieter. I can't remember having any damp issues and I would recommend you do the same if you have similar issues. Originally my window bay was built of stud without any cavity either. It was basically Lath and plaster on the inside of the stud and lath and slate roof tiles on the outside of the stud.

You will not be disappointed with this bike. I still really like mine. I got an average of 78 mpg on an over 200mile trip last Friday. It's a light easy to manage bike with lots of power too.

@@relph3 awesome... I was all about the 2014 Triumph Speed Triple but I don't need a motorcycle just for performance... I want some sportiness, some traveling and enjoying going to work on a bike and a roadster suits me fine... I still want an R9T and an R1200R lol but for now, it's this one. Thanks for replying and by the way I love the Nuda ;)

@@PedroDVC I bought the F800R because of the experience of owning the Nuda900R, they share the same engine design which is bullet proof and the same to service too. Do you know the engine has three con. rods. lol

@@relph3 Yes, I did know they share the same engine design, but still learning more about it. Thanks for letting me know!

Just to let you know you were right! Very happy with the bike. Came with the extras I wanted, a bigger spoiler, Akrapovic, windshield, BMW panniers.. sounds, and rides marvelously. thanks!